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Chemical Services


Chemical Relaxer (Permanent Hair Straightening)

Special Note before Relaxing the Hair

We protect the hairline and ears with hair oil because these are the most delicate areas that are easily irritated. However, if the client has a sensitive scalp, we make sure to part the hair and apply the hair oil directly to the entire scalp—not the hair—before relaxing. We do not apply the product to hair until complete.


We do not apply relaxer to the hair until completely smooth and without lumps. We mix for at least one minute or more. Failure to mix thoroughly may cause scalp irritation, hair damage, and hair loss. We make sure to apply relaxer close to the scalp, but not on the scalp. If it is a touch-up, we apply to new growth only.

Application Process
  • We part the hair into four sections.
  • We set the timer for the recommended time according to the hair texture.
  • We apply relaxer to the top of the head first—with a comb or applicator brush— since this section is the most resistant and takes the longest to process. Then we apply it to the front section.
  • Next we apply it to the back sections.
  • Finally, we apply relaxer to the hairline (this section is the most delicate and needs to be treated with tender-loving care).
Rinsing Process
  • Using warm water, we thoroughly rinse the hair, especially around the ears, nape, and hairline.
  • Rinsing is important: it avoids damaging and over-processing of the hair.
Neutralizing Process
  • We apply a generous amount of neutralizing shampoo to the hair and work into lather.
  • We rinse and repeat shampoo.
  • We leave on for 2-3 minutes, After rinsing, the hair feel deep cleansed and tangle free.
  • We towel dry.

Why We Use a Neutralizing Shampoo

A neutralizing shampoo stops the relaxing process and aids in returning the hair to its normal pH balance. It also ensures that all traces of the relaxer are removed from the hair.

  • We apply a generous amount of deep, penetrating, and replenishing conditioner to the hair. This will fortify and balance the moisture and protein content in the hair, resulting in stronger and healthier-looking hair that is shiny and manageable.
  • We use a plastic cap and have the client sit under a hair dryer for 10-15 minutes.
  • We rinse the hair and towel it dry.
Styling Options

We wrap the hair with the setting mousse and a light hair oil to leave the hair looking smooth and silky. This is a wonderful way to achieve a straight style without using a low heat.


This gives the hair body without using excessive heat. Hair is roller-set with setting mousse or setting lotion and a light hair oil for more body and longer-lasting curls.


We use an incredibly rich hair lotion to protect the hair from heat, to add shine, and to soften the hair. Blow-drying is an easy way to dry the hair; however, it can cause breakage or damage to the hair if it’s not done properly.

Safe Blow-drying Tip
Dry hair 90% prior to blow-drying by air drying or using dryer(warm temperature).This will minimize the amount of heat needed.

How to Keep Your Hairstyle Looking Its Best
  1. Always protect your style with a satin or silk scarf at night or sleep on a satin or silky pillow case.
  2. Avoid using a lot of heat from heat-styling tools.
  3. Keep your scalp moisturized with hair lotion or hair oil.
  4. Finish your hairstyle with a nourishing sheen spray or oil glossing polisher.

Guide to Achieving a Successful Relaxer


  • Follow the timing chart to prevent over-processing, hair damage, or possible hair loss.
  • Minimize overlapping relaxer onto previously relaxed hair.
  • Smooth the hair with the back of a comb or the cushions of the fingers.
  • Wait for at list six to eight weeks between relaxer applications.
  • If relaxer comes in contact with skin, wipe off with a damp cloth.
  • Wait two weeks after removing braids or extensions from the hair before applying a relaxer. Be sure to condition hair before relaxing. 
  • Use mixed relaxer within one day. Do not store mixed relaxer.

Do Not:

  • Pre-shampoo hair.
  • Comb or brush the hair before relaxer.
  • Apply to irritated, scratched or inflamed scalp.
  • Relax damage hair.
  • Comb relaxer through hair.
  • Drink coffee or hot drink before relaxing.
  • Press (hot comb) the hair while wearing a relaxer.
  • Apply relaxer when the body temperature and/or scalp is elevated.
  • Substitute products for other products that are not in the brand.
  • Use anti-dandruff shampoos two weeks prior to or after a relaxer.
  • Apply to hair that h
    as been shampooed two to three days prior to relaxing.
  • Apply to scalp or surrounding skin areas.
  • Relax hair and use permanent hair colour the same day.

Tips for Smoothing

Smoothing is an essential step in the relaxing process. It helps to achieve the desired straightness by evenly distributing the relaxer.

How to Smooth

  1. Smooth the relaxer using the back of a comb or fingertips.
  2. Start smoothing where the relaxer was first applied (top of head).
  3. Continue throughout head in the order the relaxer was applied.
  4. Make sure the recommended time is not exceeded.

Permanent Waves

The word “perm” is now popularly used to  indicate permanent waving with either an alkaline or acid-balance solution.

Alkaline Perms

The main active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline perms, ammonium thioglycolate, is a chemical compound made up of ammonia and thioglycolic acid. The pH of alkaline waving lotions generally falls within the range of 8.2 to 9.6, depending on the amount of ammonia.  Because the lotion is more alkaline, the cuticle layers swell slightly and open, allowing the solution to penetrate more quickly than acid-balance lotions. Some alkaline perms are wrapped with waving lotion, others with water. Some require a plastic cap for processing, others do not. Therefore, it is extremely important to read the perm directions carefully before beginning.

  • Strong curl patterns (lotion-wrapped alkaline perms are usually stronger than water-wrapped perms).
  • Fast processing time (varies from five minutes to 20 minutes).
  • Room temperature processing.
When Should Alkaline Perms be Used
  • When applying a perm to resistant hair.
  • When a strong tight curl is desired.
  • When the client has a history of early curl relaxation.
Acid-balanced Perms

One of the main active ingredients in acid-balanced waving lotions is glyceryl monothioglycolate, which effectively reduces the pH. This lower pH is gentler on the hair and typically gives a softer curl than alkaline cold waves. Acid-balanced perms have a pH range of approximately 4.5 to 6.5 and usually penetrate the hair more slowly. Thus, they require a longer processing time and heat for curl development. Heat is used in one of two ways:

  1. The perm is activated by heat created chemically within the product. This method is called exothermic.
  2. The perm is activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood hair dryer. This method is called endothermic.

The Benefits of Acid-balanced Perms

  • Softer curl patterns.
  • Slower but more controllable processing time (usually 15 to 25 minutes).

When Should Acid-balanced Perms be Used

  • When perming delicate, fragile, or colour-treated hair.
  • When a soft, natural curl or wave pattern is desired.
  • When style support, rather than a strong curl, is required.

Applying a Permanent Wave

  1. We thoroughly examine the client’s scalp for any abnormal conditions, including, but not limited to, abrasions, sores, excessive dryness, or abnormal growth patterns. If any exist, we do not use the perm.
  2. We always examine hair carefully for elasticity, texture, breakage, and discolouration to be certain it is in suitable condition to be permed. We do a strand test of the perm on a small patch of hair, following the directions. If the hair discolours and/or breaks after it is dried and combed through,  we do not use the perm.
  3. We do not allow waving lotion to remain on the skin or scalp. If this occurs, we blot with water, then with neutralizer, and again with water.
  4. We do not allow lotion and neutralizer to come in contact with the client’s eyes. If contact occurs, we ask the client to rinse and/or flush eyes out immediately with cool water.
  5. We always wear protective waterproof gloves when using the permanent wave.
Determining Texture

Texture refers to haw thick or thin (in diameter) each individual hair is. Fine hair has a small diameter; coarse hair has a large diameter. You can feel whether hair is fine, coarse, or medium when a single dry strand is held between the fingers. The texture and porosity together are used to determine processing time and the waving lotion.

Perm Selection

The type of perm we choose depends on the total evaluation of client’s hair (and wishes) during the consultation and pre-perm analysis.

Guidelines Determining Whether to Use an Alkaline or Acid-balanced Perm


Coarse, resistant
Fine, resistant 

Normal, porous 
Normal, delicate 
Tinted, porous
Highlighted/frosted/dimensionally coloured
Highlighted, tinted  

Alkaline lotion-wrap or alkaline water -wrap
Alkaline lotion-wrap or alkaline water-wrap
Alkaline water-wrap or acid-balanced
Alkaline water-wrap or acid-balanced

Acid- balanced

Wrapping Patterns

There are six popular patterns.

  1. Single halo
  2. Double halo (double horseshoe)
  3. Straight back
  4. Dropped crown
  5. Spiral wrap
  6. Stack perm
Single Halo

A single halo wrap is commonly used for average-sized heads to create even curls.

Double Halo

The double halo wrap is usually used for larger-sized heads.

Spiral Wrap

The spiral wrap is used for long hair to create tight, springy curls.

Stack Perm

The stack technique is usually used for greater curl at the nape.

  1. We shampoo hair gently.
  2. We water-wrap with even tension, selecting the proper rod size for the curl desired.
  3. We mix the lotion.
  4. We apply the lotion to all wound rods.
  5. We cover the entire head with a plastic cap.
  6. We process the hair according to the direction and the hair texture.


  1. We rinse the hair for a minimum of five minutes using warm water.
  2. We blot the hair thoroughly.


  1. We air-neutralize for at least five minutes.
  2. We place the cotton around hairline.
  3. We apply neutralizer evenly to all rods.
  4. After five minutes, we remove rods and work neutralizer through hair.
  5. We rinse for five minutes.
  6. We style as the client desires.

Gerry Curls

This service is based on each individual hair texture. There are three steps to follow:

  1. Shape Release: this permanently straightens the natural curl.
  2. Shape Transformer: this is the conditioning-wrap lotion.
  3. Shape Lock: this is a conditioning neutralizer.

Gerry Curl Procedures

  • We examine the scalp carefully to make sure there are no abrasions or irritations. If present, we do not offer the service.
  • We do not offer the service if the hair is breaking, splitting, or otherwise damaged. 
  • For hair that has been permanently coloured and shows no sign of damage, we use only the colour-treated strength.
  • We do not apply over henna compounds or metallic dyes.
  • We do not straighten hair that has been bleached, double-processed, highlighted using a lye (sodium hydroxide) relaxer or no-lye (Lithium, Potassium, Calcium Hydroxide, or Guanidine Carbonate) relaxer.
  • We do not apply if the client has ever experienced an allergic reaction to perm solutions or to a cosmetic product.
  • We do not offer a Gerry curl service and a permanent colour on the same day. We allow at least 2 weeks before or after a permanent wave service before colouring to avoid breakage.

We strongly recommend that the client come for a protein hair/scalp treatment twice prior to receiving a hair colouring service (following the Gerry curl procedure). This should be done both before and after receiving a chemical service to avoid breakage.

Application Steps
  1. We start by applying the first step (a paste) to the entire hair shaft ¼ inch from the scalp for approximately five to 10 minutes. If this is a retouch, we apply only to new growth. Immediately after completing application, we check for desired amount of straightness. When hair has achieved desired straightness, we rinse the paste thoroughly from the hair with tepid water, making sure to remove all traces. 
  1. We apply Shape Transformer (a wrapping lotion) using the desired rods. Upon completion of the wrap, we blot away any excess product. We place the cotton trip around the hairline and the processing cap over the entire head. We allow the hair to process for 10 minutes, after which we remove the cap and the cotton trip and check for a sufficient “S” pattern. If desired wave pattern is set, we rinse the hair on rods thoroughly for five to 10 minutes using tepid water. If the desired wave pattern is not achieved, we replace the cap and check again every three minutes.

After thorough rinsing, we towel blot each individual rod to eliminate any excess water left in hair.

  1.  Conditioning Neutralizer: we apply a cotton strip around the entire hairline, and we use a neutralizing bib to protect the client. The neutralizer is generously applired on each rod, top and bottom, to assure complete and thorough saturation. Processing time for the neutralizer is 10 minutes, after which we thoroughly rinse rods with tepid water and towel blot. The rods are gently removed, and we rinse again with tepid water and low water pressure for one to two minutes (or until residue is removed). The hair is towel blot and moisturize with maintenance product.

The client is to come weekly for a protein hair treatment to avoid hair breakage we also remind the client not to shampoo hair for at list 48 hours because this may compromise longevity of the result.

Hair Colouring

Hair colouring is both the science and the art of changing the colour of the hair, including:

  • Adding artificial pigment to the natural hair colour.
  • Adding artificial pigment to previously coloured hair.
  • Adding artificial pigment to pre-lightened hair.
  • Diffusing natural pigment and adding artificial pigment in one step.

Hair Lightening or Decolourizing

This technique involves the diffusing of the natural or artificial colour from the hair. Hair lightening involves the process of:

  • Decolourizing the natural pigment to prepare the hair for the final colour.
  • Decolourizing the natural or artificial pigment to the desired colour.

Reasons People Colour Their Hair

  1. Unpigmented Hair (Graying)
  • To camouflage unpigmented hair.
  • To keep and enhance their natural unpigmented hair.
  1. Self-image Boost
  • To promote a more desirable appearance.
  1. Experimental
  • To subtly enhance their existing hair colour.
  • To create a fashion statement or trend that expresses their personality.
  1. Artistic
  • To accent their hairstyle design, making it look more finished.
  • To enhance or minimize their features, using colour to create illusions.
  1. Corrective
  • To eliminate the damaged look of sun-lightened hair ends.
  • To remove the unsightly cast of chlorine or minerals caused by water.
  • To improve upon the results of previous colour experimentation.

The Natural Hair Colour Levels

  1. Black
  2. Very dark brown
  3. Dark brown
  4. Medium brown
  5. Light brown
  6. Dark blonde
  7. Medium blonde
  8. Light blonde
  9. Very light blonde
  10.  Lightest blonde


The term tone is used to describe the warmth or coolness of a colour.

The warm tones are red, orange, and yellow, although some hair-colour labels use different names like auburn, copper, gold, or bronze.

The cool tones are blue, green, and violet, often listed on labels as ash, drab, platinum, or smoky. Those words conjure up a visual picture of the properties or characteristics of the tone.

Analyzing Eye Colour

The colour of clients’ eyes can be a clue as to what their hair-colour tone could be. Eyes are rarely one colour. Usually they are combinations of two or even three colours. Basically, there are brown, blue, and green eyes. Brown eyes with olive green, reddish brown, or gold fleck are quite common. Blue eyes may have flecks of white, gold, or gray. Green eyes can range from gray-green to hazel (with brownish overtones) to yellow-green. We can categorize eye colour as warm or cool.

Warm eye colours contain either red, orange, yellow, or gold flecks through the iris of brown, blue, or green. Warm eye colours are:

  • Brown with red, orange, yellow, or gold.
  • Blue with yellow or gold.
  • Green with reddish brown, orange, yellow, or gold.

Cool eye colours contain black, gray-brown, gray-green, blue, violet, gray, or white flecks through the iris of brown, blue, or green. Cool eye colours are:

  • Brown with black, gray-brown, gray-green, or gray.
  • Blue with white, blue, gray, or violet.
  • Grren with blue or gray.

Clients with cool eye colours look most attractive in cool or neutral-toned hair colours.              

Skin Tone

Skin tone can be broken down into four simple categories: olive, red, golden, and neutral. It is easiest to observe the neutral skin tone by looking at the skin on the neck, close to the clavicle. Facial and arm skin is often affected by sun exposure, which masks the skin tone.

OLIVE skin tones have an underlying tone of gray, green, or yellow. Olive-toned clients look best in cool or neutral colours. If a warm shade is desired, it should be in a darker level.

RED skin tones have an underlying tone of red-brown, red, or blue-red. Red-toned clients look best in cool or neutral colours.

GOLDEN skin tones have an underlying tone of golden brown, gold, or peach. Golden skin tones look best in warm colours. The level chosen would be affected by the client’s natural level.

NEUTRAL skin tones are a balance of warm and cool. Neutral skin can have an underlying tone of pink and yellow in combination. You will not observe one predominant underlying skin tone. Generally, these skin tones are described as ivory, beige, or brown skin. Neutral skin tones look well in either warm or cool colours.

Gray Matters

Top tips for erasing gray hair:

  1. Know When to Go Lighter

If you’re bothered by how much your gray hair stands out against the rest of your hair, consider going lighter in stages. Start with a little highlighting around the hairline and in the area where you part your hair. This can give you an extra week or two between colourings. You can gradually follow up with more highlighting and eventually just change to a lighter shade.

  1. Apply the Colour Correctly

Always start where you have the most gray. Most people with gray hair see it concentrated near their hairline, so start there first. Be very generous when you apply the product, and make sure it covers the hair well. Take your time so the gray is saturated with colour.

  1. Choose the Right Formula

Soft permanent formulas will only provide 50-70% gray coverage. If you’re just starting to see grays, formulas can help make these grays appear less noticeable. But for complete camouflage, you’ll need a permanent colour offering 100% gray coverage—which is indeed offered at Elisabeth Braiding  and Hair Extension.

  1. Count on Frequent Touch-ups.

To keep silver strands at bay, you’ll likely need to come in  for a touch-up every four weeks. Keep in mind that darker base colours will make gray hairs stand out the most.

Finger Waving

Finger waving is the art of shaping and directing the hair into alternate parallel waves and designs using the fingers, gel, comb, waving lotion, and hairpins or clippies.


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