Hair Proportion from the Profile
If you’re using the ratio 2 parts face to 3 parts hair, the same ratio should apply when viewing the client’s profile. If you need flexibility to correct profile problems, you can increase the proportion to 5 parts hair and 2 parts face for a more pleasing profile view.
Body Proportion
It is essential when designing hairstyles that you look at the client’s body proportions. A body that is not in proportion will be more obvious if the hair form is too small or too large. When choosing a style for a woman with large hips or broad shoulders, for instance, you would normally create a style with a large form. But the same large hair form would appear out of proportion on a petite woman. When designing a hairstyle, keep in mind that the hair should not be wider than the center of the shoulders, regardless of the body structure.
Balance
Balance refers to the harmonious arrangement of the hair. It can be either symmetrical or asymmetrical. If you are dissatisfied with a finished hair design, it is often because the style is out of balance.
To measure symmetry, divide the face into four equal parts. Where the lines cross is the central axis, the reference point for judging the balance of the hair design.
Symmetrical Balance
Both sides of the hairstyle are the same distance from the center, the same length, and have the same volume when viewed from the front. The sides may have the same shape or a different shape but still have the same volume.
Asymmetrical Balance
Opposite sides of the hair-style are a different length or have a different volume. To create balance, the larger side must be brought in closer to the center and the smaller side brought away from center. Asymmetry can be horizontal or diagonal.
Creating Harmony between Hairstyle and Facial Structure
Each client deserves a hairstyle that is properly proportioned to her body type, is correctly balanced to the head and facial features, and attractively frames the face. The essentials of an artistic and suitable hairstyle are based on the following general characteristics:
- Shape of the head: front view (face shape), profile, and back view .
- Characteristics of features: perfect as well as imperfect features.
- Body structure, posture, and poise.
Facial Types
Each client’s facial shape is determined by the position and prominence of the facial bones. There are seven facial shapes: oval, round, square, pear-shaped, heart-shaped, and diamond-shaped. To recognize each facial shape, and to be able to give correct advice, stylists must be acquainted with the outstanding characteristics of each.
Oval Facial Type
The oval-shaped face is generally recognized as the ideal shape. The contour and proportions of the oval face form the basis for modifying all other facial types.
Facial Contour
The oval face is about 1½ times longer than its width across the brow. The forehead is slightly wider than the chin.
A person with an oval-shaped face can wear any hairstyle unless there are other considerations, such as eyeglasses, length and shape of nose, or profile.
Round Face Type
Facial Contour
Round hairline, round chin line, wide face.
Aim
To create the illusion of length to the face.
Create a hairstyle with height by arranging the hair on top of the head. Stylists should place some hair over the ears and cheeks, but it is also appropriate to keep the hair up on one side, leaving the ears exposed. Style the bangs to one side.
Square Facial Type
Facial Contour
Straight hairline, square jaw line, wide face.
Aim
To create the illusion of length, offset the square features. The problems of the square facial type are similar to the round facial type The style should lift off the forehead and come forward at the temples and jaw, creating the illusion of narrowness and softness in the face Asymmetrical hairstyles work well.
Pear-shaped Facial Type
Facial Contour
Narrow forehead, wide jaw and chin line.
Aim
To create the illusion of width in the forehead. Build a hairstyle that is fairly full and high. Cover the forehead partially with a fringe of soft hair. The hair should be worn with a semi-curl or soft wave effect cropped over the ears. This arrangement adds apparent width to the forehead.
Oblong Facial Type
Facial Contour
Long, narrow face with hallow cheeks.
Aim
To make the face appear shorter and wider. The hair should be styled fairly close to the top of the head, with a fringe of curls and bangs, combined with fullness to the sides. Drawing the hair out from the cheeks creates the illusion of width.
Diamond Facial Type
Facial Contour
Narrow forehead, extreme width through the cheekbones, and narrow chin.
Aim
Reducing the width across the jaw-line and forehead while keeping the hair close to the head at the cheekbone line helps create an oval appearance. Avoid hairstyles that lift away from the cheeks or move back from the hairline.
Heart-shaped Facial Type
Facial Contour
Wide forehead and narrow chin line.
Aims
To create the width of the forehead and increase the width in the lower part of the face. To reduce the width of the forehead, a center part with bangs flipped up or a style slanted to one side is recommended. Add width and softness at jaw-line
Special Considerations
Top Third of the Face
Wide Forehead
Direct hair forward over the sides of the forehead.
Narrow Forehead
Direct hair away from the face at the forehead. Lighter highlights can be used at the temples to create the illusion of width.
Middle Third of the Face
Close-set Eyes
Usually found on long, narrow faces. Direct hair back and away from the face at the temples. A side movement from a diagonal back part with some height is advisable. A slight lightening of the hair at the corner of the eyes will give the illusion of width.
Wide-set Eyes
Usually found on round or square faces. Use a higher half bang to create length in the face. This will give the face the illusion of being larger and make the eyes appear more proportional. The hair should be slightly darker at the sides than the top.
Crooked Nose
Asymmetrical, off-center styles are best, as they attract the eye away from the nose. Any well-balanced style will accentuate the fact that the face is not even.
Wide, Flat Nose
Draw the hair away from the face and use a center part to help elongate and narrow the nose.
The Lower Third of the Face
Round Jaw
Use straight lines at the jaw-lines.
Square Jaw
Use curved lines at the jaw-line.
Long Jaw
Hair should be full and fall below the jaw to direct attention from the jaw.
Profiles
When analyzing the profile, it is helpful to divide it into thirds, as with the face. There are three basic profiles:
- The straight profile is considered the ideal. It is neither concave nor convex, although it actually has a very slight curvature. Generally, all hairstyles are flattering to the straight or normal profile.
- The convex profile has an exaggerated outward curvature. Arrange curls or bangs over the forehead. Keep the style close the head at the nape and move hair forward in the chin area.
- The concave profile has an inward curvature. Hair at the nape should be styled softly, with upward movement. Do not build hair onto the forehead.
Various hair designs can help balance disproportionate areas of the profile, such as:
Receding Forehead
Direct the bangs over the forehead with an outwardly directed volume.
Large Forehead
Use bangs with little or no volume to cover the forehead.
Small Nose
A small nose is considered a childlike quality; therefore, it is best to design a hairstyle that is not associated with children. Hair should be swept off the face, creating a line from nose to ear. The top hair should be moved off the forehead to give the illusion of length to the nose.
Prominent Nose
To draw attention away from the nose, bring hair forward at the forehead with softness around the face.
Receding Chin
Hair should be directed forward in the chin area.
Small Chin
Move the hair up and away from the face along the chin line.
Large Chin
The hair should be either longer or shorter than the chin line so as to not draw attention to the chin.
The Neck
Short Neck
Sweep hair up, building height on top. Avoid styles with fullness at the back of the neck, as well as styles with horizontal lines.
Long Neck or Long, Thin Neck
Cover neck with soft waves. Avoid short or sculptured necklines. Keep the hair long and full at the nape.
Head Shape
Not all head shapes are round. It is important to feel the head shape before deciding on a hairstyle. Design the style with volume in areas that are flat or small while reducing volume in areas that are large or prominent.
Here are some different shaped head shapes:
- Perfect oval
- Narrow head, flat back
- Flat crown
- Pointed head, hollow nape
- Flat top
- Flat crown
- Small head
Styling for People with Glasses
People who wear glasses have special issues regarding hairstyle and makeup habits. A combination of a becoming hairstyle, the proper makeup, and the correct glasses will help to accentuate the wearer’s best features. Important considerations when recommending frames are size, shape, and colour. Gold metallic frames are best on individuals with warm or golden skin tones. Likewise, individuals with cool or olive skin tone look best in silver or pewter-coloured metallic frames.
Some basic rules are:
- Large faces need larger frames; small faces take smaller ones.
- Dark frames make the face look smaller.
- Light-coloured frames emphasize the face as it is.
- Thinner, more delicate frames flatter a small face.
- Big, bold frames are best for larger women.
- Tops of frames should always cover the eyebrows.
The shape of frames or unframed lenses should be chosen to correspond to the shape of the face. The ideal face shape, oval, can wear almost any frame shape if no individual features need special consideration.
Basic Guidelines for Clients with Eyeglasses
Round or Square Face
A round face with full cheeks and a rounded forehead appears moon-shaped. Frames with straight, squared-off lines will give the face more interesting planes and angles. A square face, on the other hand, has fairly straight lines and angles. When a square face is also large, heavy frames tend to make it look more delicate. A hairstyle with height will create the illusion of length in the face. A simple, uncluttered, casual style is best.
Heart-Shaped or Diamond-shaped Face
Both these shapes are characterized by wide cheekbones and a narrow jaw-line. The objective is to minimize the width of the cheekbones with relatively slender, dark frames that fit close to the head and make the upper half of the face look more proportionate to the jaw. Open bangs harmonize and help balance the upper and lower parts of the face.
Small or Narrow Face
The objective is to minimize length and give the illusion of a fuller face. Small or narrow faces appear even more elongated with small frames or frames with strong vertical lines. Reasonably large frames with strong horizontal lines will tend to make the face appear shorter. It is important that the hairstyle have width and moderate height. It should be shorter, with deep wave shaping on the sides, allowing for the glasses. A side wave bang can be complementary.
Pear-shaped Face
The pear-shaped or triangular face is characterized by a wide jaw-line and narrow cheekbones. The objective is to minimize the width of the jaw-line and emphasize length in the face. Larger, oval-shaped frames will soften the squareness of the jaw-line and emphasize the eyes. Hair should be worn up and off the face, high in the front and in the crown. Softness around the face—hair brushed forward on the lower cheeks—will reduce width and create a better balance.
Men’s Eyeglasses
A man’s glasses should also complement the shape of his face and facial features. The same principles of line and style apply for both men and women.
Hair Parts
Hair parts can be the focal point of a hairstyle. Because the eye is drawn to a part, careful attention must be paid regarding how it is used. It must always be neat, without hairs straggling from one side or another, and must be straight and directed positively. It is usually best to use a natural part if at all possible; however, we may elect to create a part according to our client’s head shape, facial features, or desired hairstyle. It is often difficult to create a lasting hairstyle when working against the natural crown part. We might be able to incorporate the natural part into the finished style.
Suggestions for Suitable Hair Parts for Various Facial Types
Part Bangs
- The Triangular part is the basic parting for bang section.
- The Diagonal part gives height to a round or square face and width to a long, thin face.
- The curved part is used for a receding hairline or high forehead.
Style Parts
- Side parts are used to direct hair across the top of the head. They help develop height on top and make thin hair appear fuller.
- Center parts are classical. They are usually used for an oval face, but give and oval illusion to wide and round faces. We do not use center parts on people with prominent noses.
- Diagonal back parts are used to create the illusion of width or height in hairstyle.
- ZigZag parts create a dramatic effect.
Hair Proportion from the Profile
If you’re using the ratio 2 parts face to 3 parts hair, the same ratio should apply when viewing the client’s profile. If you need flexibility to correct profile problems, you can increase the proportion to 5 parts hair and 2 parts face for a more pleasing profile view.
Body Proportion
It is essential when designing hairstyles that you look at the client’s body proportions. A body that is not in proportion will be more obvious if the hair form is too small or too large. When choosing a style for a woman with large hips or broad shoulders, for instance, you would normally create a style with a large form. But the same large hair form would appear out of proportion on a petite woman. When designing a hairstyle, keep in mind that the hair should not be wider than the center of the shoulders, regardless of the body structure.
Balance
Balance refers to the harmonious arrangement of the hair. It can be either symmetrical or asymmetrical. If you are dissatisfied with a finished hair design, it is often because the style is out of balance.
To measure symmetry, divide the face into four equal parts. Where the lines cross is the central axis, the reference point for judging the balance of the hair design.
Symmetrical Balance
Both sides of the hairstyle are the same distance from the center, the same length, and have the same volume when viewed from the front. The sides may have the same shape or a different shape but still have the same volume.
Asymmetrical Balance
Opposite sides of the hair-style are a different length or have a different volume. To create balance, the larger side must be brought in closer to the center and the smaller side brought away from center. Asymmetry can be horizontal or diagonal.
Creating Harmony between Hairstyle and Facial Structure
Each client deserves a hairstyle that is properly proportioned to her body type, is correctly balanced to the head and facial features, and attractively frames the face. The essentials of an artistic and suitable hairstyle are based on the following general characteristics:
- Shape of the head: front view (face shape), profile, and back view .
- Characteristics of features: perfect as well as imperfect features.
- Body structure, posture, and poise.
Facial Types
Each client’s facial shape is determined by the position and prominence of the facial bones. There are seven facial shapes: oval, round, square, pear-shaped, heart-shaped, and diamond-shaped. To recognize each facial shape, and to be able to give correct advice, stylists must be acquainted with the outstanding characteristics of each.
Oval Facial Type
The oval-shaped face is generally recognized as the ideal shape. The contour and proportions of the oval face form the basis for modifying all other facial types.
Facial Contour
The oval face is about 1½ times longer than its width across the brow. The forehead is slightly wider than the chin.
A person with an oval-shaped face can wear any hairstyle unless there are other considerations, such as eyeglasses, length and shape of nose, or profile.
Round Face Type
Facial Contour
Round hairline, round chin line, wide face.
Aim
To create the illusion of length to the face.
Create a hairstyle with height by arranging the hair on top of the head. Stylists should place some hair over the ears and cheeks, but it is also appropriate to keep the hair up on one side, leaving the ears exposed. Style the bangs to one side.
Square Facial Type
Facial Contour
Straight hairline, square jaw line, wide face.
Aim
To create the illusion of length, offset the square features. The problems of the square facial type are similar to the round facial type The style should lift off the forehead and come forward at the temples and jaw, creating the illusion of narrowness and softness in the face Asymmetrical hairstyles work well.
Pear-shaped Facial Type
Facial Contour
Narrow forehead, wide jaw and chin line.
Aim
To create the illusion of width in the forehead. Build a hairstyle that is fairly full and high. Cover the forehead partially with a fringe of soft hair. The hair should be worn with a semi-curl or soft wave effect cropped over the ears. This arrangement adds apparent width to the forehead.
Oblong Facial Type
Facial Contour
Long, narrow face with hallow cheeks.
Aim
To make the face appear shorter and wider. The hair should be styled fairly close to the top of the head, with a fringe of curls and bangs, combined with fullness to the sides. Drawing the hair out from the cheeks creates the illusion of width.
Diamond Facial Type
Facial Contour
Narrow forehead, extreme width through the cheekbones, and narrow chin.
Aim
Reducing the width across the jaw-line and forehead while keeping the hair close to the head at the cheekbone line helps create an oval appearance. Avoid hairstyles that lift away from the cheeks or move back from the hairline.
Heart-shaped Facial Type
Facial Contour
Wide forehead and narrow chin line.
Aims
To create the width of the forehead and increase the width in the lower part of the face. To reduce the width of the forehead, a center part with bangs flipped up or a style slanted to one side is recommended. Add width and softness at jaw-line
Special Considerations
Top Third of the Face
Wide Forehead
Direct hair forward over the sides of the forehead.
Narrow Forehead
Direct hair away from the face at the forehead. Lighter highlights can be used at the temples to create the illusion of width.
Middle Third of the Face
Close-set Eyes
Usually found on long, narrow faces. Direct hair back and away from the face at the temples. A side movement from a diagonal back part with some height is advisable. A slight lightening of the hair at the corner of the eyes will give the illusion of width.
Wide-set Eyes
Usually found on round or square faces. Use a higher half bang to create length in the face. This will give the face the illusion of being larger and make the eyes appear more proportional. The hair should be slightly darker at the sides than the top.
Crooked Nose
Asymmetrical, off-center styles are best, as they attract the eye away from the nose. Any well-balanced style will accentuate the fact that the face is not even.
Wide, Flat Nose
Draw the hair away from the face and use a center part to help elongate and narrow the nose.
The Lower Third of the Face
Round Jaw
Use straight lines at the jaw-lines.
Square Jaw
Use curved lines at the jaw-line.
Long Jaw
Hair should be full and fall below the jaw to direct attention from the jaw.
Profiles
When analyzing the profile, it is helpful to divide it into thirds, as with the face. There are three basic profiles:
- The straight profile is considered the ideal. It is neither concave nor convex, although it actually has a very slight curvature. Generally, all hairstyles are flattering to the straight or normal profile.
- The convex profile has an exaggerated outward curvature. Arrange curls or bangs over the forehead. Keep the style close the head at the nape and move hair forward in the chin area.
- The concave profile has an inward curvature. Hair at the nape should be styled softly, with upward movement. Do not build hair onto the forehead.
Various hair designs can help balance disproportionate areas of the profile, such as:
Receding Forehead
Direct the bangs over the forehead with an outwardly directed volume.
Large Forehead
Use bangs with little or no volume to cover the forehead.
Small Nose
A small nose is considered a childlike quality; therefore, it is best to design a hairstyle that is not associated with children. Hair should be swept off the face, creating a line from nose to ear. The top hair should be moved off the forehead to give the illusion of length to the nose.
Prominent Nose
To draw attention away from the nose, bring hair forward at the forehead with softness around the face.
Receding Chin
Hair should be directed forward in the chin area.
Small Chin
Move the hair up and away from the face along the chin line.
Large Chin
The hair should be either longer or shorter than the chin line so as to not draw attention to the chin.
The Neck
Short Neck
Sweep hair up, building height on top. Avoid styles with fullness at the back of the neck, as well as styles with horizontal lines.
Long Neck or Long, Thin Neck
Cover neck with soft waves. Avoid short or sculptured necklines. Keep the hair long and full at the nape.
Head Shape
Not all head shapes are round. It is important to feel the head shape before deciding on a hairstyle. Design the style with volume in areas that are flat or small while reducing volume in areas that are large or prominent.
Here are some different shaped head shapes:
- Perfect oval
- Narrow head, flat back
- Flat crown
- Pointed head, hollow nape
- Flat top
- Flat crown
- Small head
Styling for People with Glasses
People who wear glasses have special issues regarding hairstyle and makeup habits. A combination of a becoming hairstyle, the proper makeup, and the correct glasses will help to accentuate the wearer’s best features. Important considerations when recommending frames are size, shape, and colour. Gold metallic frames are best on individuals with warm or golden skin tones. Likewise, individuals with cool or olive skin tone look best in silver or pewter-coloured metallic frames.
Some basic rules are:
- Large faces need larger frames; small faces take smaller ones.
- Dark frames make the face look smaller.
- Light-coloured frames emphasize the face as it is.
- Thinner, more delicate frames flatter a small face.
- Big, bold frames are best for larger women.
- Tops of frames should always cover the eyebrows.
The shape of frames or unframed lenses should be chosen to correspond to the shape of the face. The ideal face shape, oval, can wear almost any frame shape if no individual features need special consideration.
Basic Guidelines for Clients with Eyeglasses
Round or Square Face
A round face with full cheeks and a rounded forehead appears moon-shaped. Frames with straight, squared-off lines will give the face more interesting planes and angles. A square face, on the other hand, has fairly straight lines and angles. When a square face is also large, heavy frames tend to make it look more delicate. A hairstyle with height will create the illusion of length in the face. A simple, uncluttered, casual style is best.
Heart-Shaped or Diamond-shaped Face
Both these shapes are characterized by wide cheekbones and a narrow jaw-line. The objective is to minimize the width of the cheekbones with relatively slender, dark frames that fit close to the head and make the upper half of the face look more proportionate to the jaw. Open bangs harmonize and help balance the upper and lower parts of the face.
Small or Narrow Face
The objective is to minimize length and give the illusion of a fuller face. Small or narrow faces appear even more elongated with small frames or frames with strong vertical lines. Reasonably large frames with strong horizontal lines will tend to make the face appear shorter. It is important that the hairstyle have width and moderate height. It should be shorter, with deep wave shaping on the sides, allowing for the glasses. A side wave bang can be complementary.
Pear-shaped Face
The pear-shaped or triangular face is characterized by a wide jaw-line and narrow cheekbones. The objective is to minimize the width of the jaw-line and emphasize length in the face. Larger, oval-shaped frames will soften the squareness of the jaw-line and emphasize the eyes. Hair should be worn up and off the face, high in the front and in the crown. Softness around the face—hair brushed forward on the lower cheeks—will reduce width and create a better balance.
Men’s Eyeglasses
A man’s glasses should also complement the shape of his face and facial features. The same principles of line and style apply for both men and women.
Hair Parts
Hair parts can be the focal point of a hairstyle. Because the eye is drawn to a part, careful attention must be paid regarding how it is used. It must always be neat, without hairs straggling from one side or another, and must be straight and directed positively. It is usually best to use a natural part if at all possible; however, we may elect to create a part according to our client’s head shape, facial features, or desired hairstyle. It is often difficult to create a lasting hairstyle when working against the natural crown part. We might be able to incorporate the natural part into the finished style.
Suggestions for Suitable Hair Parts for Various Facial Types
Part Bangs
- The Triangular part is the basic parting for bang section.
- The Diagonal part gives height to a round or square face and width to a long, thin face.
- The curved part is used for a receding hairline or high forehead.
Style Parts
- Side parts are used to direct hair across the top of the head. They help develop height on top and make thin hair appear fuller.
- Center parts are classical. They are usually used for an oval face, but give and oval illusion to wide and round faces. We do not use center parts on people with prominent noses.
- Diagonal back parts are used to create the illusion of width or height in hairstyle.
- ZigZag parts create a dramatic effect.
Bonding Extension
!st we part hair where the extension will be place.
This method is done by simply applying the bonding on the weft previously cut to the desire length and then we place the weft. Immediately we apply on the part that was previously parted, we press firmly next we blow the hot hair on the bond and weft and press firmly. The hot air will allow the bond to stick on the natural hair. We continue the procedure according to client hair texture, length and the client hair cut for a best result the client should have the natural hair cut in (layer hair cut) before proceeding the hair extension service. We end the service by blending the natural into the hair extension and style as the client desire.
I Tip Extension
This method is done by using a metal ring and a I tip extension, a strand of hair is first pull thru the metal ring using a special tool call crochet hook. The hair is pull thru the ring, the ring is pushed close to the scalp and secure with the thumb and the index finger, the Tip of the extension is then put into the ring. Next, we pinch the ring tight together using a pincher, this can be use as highlight to the natural hair, to add volume and length as any other hair extension. Between 150 to 200 strands of hair can be used for a full head.
Single Loop Extension
This method is fast easy, the concept is basically the same as the I tip extension, same result . the difference is simply that the extension is pre-ring and there is a loop inside the ring. The service is done by simply pulling a strand of hair thru the ring using the loop and the then we pinch the ring using the pincher tool. For final result is done the same way the I tip extension. For a full head, depending on the hair texture, length and volume. 150 to 200 strands or more can be used.
Double Loop Extension
The hair has two loops in the ring. first, the loop is use to pull the hair thru the ring pulling half way only, the second loop will be pull tight, lock and secure the hair, we now pinch the ring together at this time to finish and move to the next strand.
Senegalese twist these.
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